09/12/15

Piedmont Tour


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This tour of the region of Piedmont, Italy, combines an in-depth look at historical changes in spirituality with the enjoyment of the region's traditional lifestyle and famous landscapes: its majestic Alps, its pleasant wine hills, and its fascinating lakes. From the earliest times of the Celtic culture to the state-sponsored Baroque theatricality of the 18th century, Piedmont has known a flourishing of stunning religious architecture and popular religious art which has been largely preserved, yet is mostly unknown to international tourists even today. We will be staying mostly at monasteries and sanctuaries. Your guide will be a native of Piedmont who is trained in theology and the history of spirituality, is excited to share hidden treasures, and knows and values the culinary traditions of his home region.

 Dates: May 23 (leaving from Los Angeles) - June 4 (arrival in Los Angeles)

 

 

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Vezzolano Abbey



DAY 1 and DAY 2: Romanesque churches in the hills of Monferrato

The sub-region of Monferrato knew a remarkable architectural flourishing in the 11th and 12th centuries and keeps to this day dozens of churches in the Romanesque style, varying from very small chapels to structures quite complex and refined. We will visit five among the most remarkable of such churches, set in the enchanting setting of hills covered with vines. Perhaps the relative seclusion of this sub-region in modern times has helped to preserve not only the structures, but the stunning decorations on capitals and lintels, including mermaids and other mythological animals. Sexual carvings and more common animals are present as well. We will delve into hypotheses about the meaning of such astoundingly rich symbolism. One major site, the Vezzolano Abbey, presents a higher complexity in structure and a shift toward more biblical imagery. In this place, once inhabited by Augustinian monks, we will explore specifically the relation between biblical meditation, liturgy, communal life, and architectural space. 

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Mermaid, Church of St.Secondo 12th c.



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DAY 4: Sanctuary of the Black Madonna

 The Black Madonna was revered in Oropa well before 
the visit of the first Christian bishop of the area of Vercelli, 
Eusebius, according to his own witness. Eusebius made
his pilgrimage in the 3rd century, and since then the sanctuary
has been Christianized, at least externally. 
We will be able to detect the historical layers
of the devotion to the Black Madonna, to see historical
documentation of the pilgrimages spanning several centuries,
and to witness the presence of contemporary pilgrims.
This day will be entirely spent on site.

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Upper Courtyard, Sanctuary of the Black Madonna, Oropa












The site of Oropa includes a Sacred Mount dedicated
to the life of Mary. The sacred mounts of Piedmont
have been granted UNESCO protection since 2003


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Drawing of the Mosaic of the Twelve Month, Aosta Cathedral





















DAY 5: The Aosta Valley from Roman times to courtly love

The city of Aosta gives the name 
to a very wide Alpine valley
which enjoys a special autonomy granted
in the Italian Constitution.

Here both French and Italian 
are recognized as official
languages and an old-German
speaking minority is present as well.

The city presents imposing Roman monuments
as well as the medieval quarters
which St.Anselm of Canterbury
went round as a boy.


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Cathedral towers, Aosta
We will be able to trace the evolution of Medieval civilization 
through some of the many prominent religious and civic buildings of this valley, traversed by the major routes to cross the Alps into Switzerland and France.



High points of the visit will be: the 8th c. baptistery of Settimo Vittone, the 11th c. Cathedral of Aosta and its stunning mosaic pavement of the twelve months, the 12th c. cloister of St.Ours with one of the most amazing sequence of capitels, and the 13th c. castle of Fenis.



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Fenis Castle


In Fenis, religious symbolism gives way to
an esoteric way of conceiving 
the architecturally enclosed space
as the heart of a lover to be stormed.



DAY 6 and DAY 7: the Susa Valley from Neolithic Times to Monastic Culture


In the Susa valley, dominated by the city  with the same name,
we will be able to look back beyond the Roman conquest
into the religion of the Celts, of which consistent remains 
are present not just in buildings, but in popular tradition as well
and to look even further back into Neolithic times by visiting
a mount/sanctuary which has been only superficially Christianized.


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Procession, Giaglione
 
  We will be in the village of Giaglione on one of the four days of the year
when the traditional procession and sword dance are performed.
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St.Eldradus receives the monastic habit, Novalesa



We will explore the coexistence of monks living
under different rules of life 
in one single monastic site - the Abbey of Novalesa,
endowed by Charlemagne in the early 9th c.



Torture in hell, Church of St.Stephen in Giaglione
We will also investigate the role of frescoes in teaching morality
to the population in the 15th century and beyond.


The overarching theme of these two intense days
could be summarized as investigating the meaning of “sanctity”
and “to be a saint”in different eras of religious civilization.

 
One of the most magnificent monastic buildings of the world
and an UNESCO site, the Abbey of St.Michael,
will constitute a major highlight of the tour.


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Abbey of St.Michael


Piedmont Tour (2nd part)


DAY 8: the Marquisate of Saluzzo: Cistercian simplicity and refined courtly life
Within Piedmont, the Marquisate based in the city of Saluzzo knew its heyday between the 14th and the 16th c. Testimonies of such period are several refined building dedicated to the amusement and the pleasure of the nobility, in stark contrast with the austere simplicity of a major Cistercian abbey. During this more relaxed day, we will be able to enjoy the city of Saluzzo, to visit the castle of Manta where the famous fresco of the fountain of eternal youth is preserved, and to discuss the meaning of Cistercian life on-site, at the abbey of Staffarda. All such sites are at a very short distance from each other.


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Cloister, Abbey of Staffarda




DAY 9: Religious toleration and religious hate at the border with France
The endeavors of the Marquis of Saluzzo to dote his territories with art works has left some quite stunning frescoes in very unusual places such as churches nested high in the mountains, toward what is not the border of Italy with France. Besides visiting one of such examples, the church in Elva, we will also tour the town of Chianale, which is especially interesting because it witnessed the pacific coexistence of a Catholic parish and a Reformed community for some time during the 17th c, until the edict of 1713 started the persecution of those who did not accept Catholicism. The previous efforts by Franciscans to convert the population evidently were not successful, but the historical traces of such mission are worth a visit. These valleys of the Marquisate of Saluzzo present also a number of menhirs which were Christianized by crosses and inscriptions, instead of being removed and destroyed. Keeping with the theme of religion as means of conviction and coercion in the Reformation era, the day will end at the sanctuary of Vicoforte, a major example of Baroque theatrical building, sporting the fourth wider elliptical dome in the world built as a baldachin to a miraculous icon of Mary.

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Renaissance frescoes in the church of Elva


 
DAY 10: Nuns and wine tasting in the hills of Langhe
This day will be a relaxing one, mostly dedicated to the wonderful landscapes of Langhe. This is were Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo, and Dolcetto are produced. We will also tour briefly the city of Alba, which keeps among other buildings a relatively rare examples of female convent, the Dominican nunnery of St.Margaret of Savoy. This might give us the occasion to discuss the contrast between asceticism and life-enjoyment while sipping a very good glass of wine. What is true mysticism after all?

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City of Barolo
 
DAY 11: Splendor of Baroque religiosity and the Shroud of Turin
This day will be fully dedicated to the capital of Piedmont, the city of Torino (Turin), whose present Baroque structure is due to a major strategic planning which was implemented in the early 18th c., intending to rival Versaille, when Torino became the capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia. The morning will include a short visit to he centre of town and the chapel of the Holy Shroud, as well as the “Museo d’Arte Antica” which hosts the most precious works of religious medieval art from the whole region. The afternoon will be free for choosing between many options, among which the Museum of the Holy Shroud, or the very renowned Egyptian Antiquity Museum, or some of the many Baroque churches and palaces, or simply wandering and shopping.

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The Black Madonna and other saints showing the Holy Shroud, Biella
DAY 12: departures from Turin/Caselle airport or from Malpensa airport

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St. Charles' square, Torino
Variation in the itinerary: because of difficulties with the opening hours of some sites, day 7 and day 11 will be swapped, i.e. the visit of the city of Turin will take place on day 7 and day 11 will be dedicated to the lower portion of the Susa Valley.

ACCOMODATIONS:
Day 1 and day 2:
Pilgrim Guest House of the Sanctuary of Crea

Day 3:
Pilgrim Guest House of the Sacred Mount of Varallo

Day 4 and 5: 

Pilgrim Guest House of the Sanctuary of Oropa

Day 6, 7, and 11:
Certosa di Avigliana (formerly Capuchin convent, then nun Chartreuse)

Day 8:
http://www.castellorosso.com/
Castle in Costigliole Saluzzo

Day 9:
Pilgrim Guest House of the Sanctuary of Vicoforte

Day 10:
http://www.casanicolini.com/
Hotel Casa Nicolini (farm house)
  


Price: 1600 Euros. The price for the tour includes accommodation in double rooms (with bathroom en suite), breakfast and dinner, visits and tickets to the sites. Single rooms: 150 Euros more. Luxury rooms may be available; a request should to be expressed at the time of reservation. Any dietary requirement should also be expressed at the time of reservation. 

This is a tour/pilgrimage organized by Christ Church Episcopal Parish, Ontario, California. Booking and payments should be handled with the parish secretary
Tamara Lindvall: christchurchontariocal@gmail.com

Interested folks are kindly requested to book before February 15. Latecomers might be accepted, depending on availability. 

N.B. The price does not include airfare and luncheons.


Tour leader: Gianluigi Gugliermetto has studied philosophy in Torino (Piedmont, Italy) and has received his Ph.D. in religion from Claremont Graduate University (Claremont, California). He is a deacon in the Episcopal Church. His scholarly interests include Christian spirituality and mysticism in the Middle Ages, monasticism and gender issues in religion, religious diversity, and the connection between theology, liturgy, and the sacredness of space.

You can write to Gianluigi for questions regarding the itinerary and the accommodations:
ggugliermetto65@gmail.com